Non-Binary Classic Pinstripe Suit

Webster’s Dictionary defines androgyny as “neither specifically feminine nor masculine” OR as “having both masculine and feminine characteristics.”

Over the years, designers have created pieces and collections using terms such as boyfriend jeans, RompHims, and gender-fluid fashion, but the collections have failed to offer feminine pieces for men or women.

The beauty of custom clothing is having the ability to create my unique definition of androgyny.

My style is androgynous, gender neutral, gender fluid, genderless, unisex, or non-binary. It is not masculine or feminine. My suits are designed from a men’s pattern, but custom-made to fit a woman. Shao (the founder of The Tailory New York) has mastered certain techniques that allow for a female suit to appear more masculine. Here are a few of the techniques that Shao follows when creating my suit:

Jacket – The lines on a traditional women’s jacket are round and soft for a feminine look. Although my jacket is formed to fit my body, Shao uses sharper and straighter lines for a more masculine presenting suit. This also gives the illusion of a stronger silhouette versus a softer jacket.
Shoulders of the Jacket – Typically, women’s jackets are made without padding for a softer shoulder. Like a men’s jacket, my shoulders are constructed using padding and sleeve heads, but there’s a twist. Since the piece is custom, Shao is able to cut down the padding size to accommodate any shoulder size. Women naturally have smaller shoulder so Shao uses a smaller shoulder pad, once again, for a stronger look.
Trousers – My trousers are gender fluid. The cut, length, and overall fit is all preference. The only true difference in men’s and women’s pants is the crotch also known as the front panel.

The Classic Suit

Three years ago, I created this navy pinstripe suit with a shawl lapel. I wanted a piece that was bold, sophisticated, and extremely versatile. I must say, the navy pinstripe suit hasn’t disappointed me yet!

Most people associate the navy pinstripe suit with Wall Street, finance, and business, but I think that I’ve proven time and time again that stereo types and traditions are meant to be broken.

The pinstripe suit can quickly look dated and old fashion. Don’t take the easy way out by pairing it with a plain white shirt and tie. Whether classy or casual, opt for playful colors and combinations. BUT… avoid wearing too many stripes, you don’t want to make it hard on the eyes.

This go-round, I decided to wear the pinstripe suit more casually. Thanks to back to back Nor’easter storms, I’ve been layered up all season long. Once again, the turtleneck is this seasons go-to piece, providing a retro feel with a modern twist. The dark grey turtleneck plays up the suit with ease. The subtle difference compliments the pinstripe pattern perfectly.

There was no need for any added accessories except a brown leather watch. Lastly, to maintain a casual feel, I slipped on my favorite chocolate Chelsea boots.

Remember, simplicity is key!

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